Tuesday, July 28, 2015

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico is being "Loved to death"

 On the weekends, the streets of San Miguel in centro have been turned into walking streets.  That has been wonderful.  Centro is so full of tourists that all the hotels, restaurants, parking lots and stores are packed.
I'm not exaggerating at all.  The jardin is full of milling tourists - 99% Mexican nationals.

I laugh when people talk about how many gringos live in San Miguel.  If you lived here you would instantly recognize that we are definitely the minority.  Many of the places I go, I'm the only ex-pat there.  Truly.
 These two photos are of Relox street that eventually intersects with the jardin.  Usually the street is full of vehicular traffic and one cannot stop to take photos of beautiful balconies such as these.  With the streets closed so people could walk around, I was able to get these two photos last week.

The amount of tourists are in direct correlation to the fact that, as the taxi drivers say, as they roll their eyes, "It is vacation"  but the way they say it they drag the word out.  You see, with all the vehicular traffic on the streets that aren't closed, it is total gridlock.  Therefore the taxis are making less, because they can't get anywhere very quickly.  I used a taxi last Saturday night to go to a concert where the entire two hours was the best jazz and blues I've heard in years.  All honoring BB King.  It took the taxi twenty minutes to get from my house to the Bellas Artes.  It is usually a five minute taxi ride.  When I left the performance and needed to get a taxi, I luckily got one immediately.  Something that rarely happens anymore.  One can wait as much as twenty or thirty minutes to get one.  Not good.

Sunday I couldn't get a taxi for up the hill and a store owner noticed me standing there a long time, offered his car! and drove me up the hill.  I was shocked and grateful.  He complained all the way up the hill about the amount of people in town, the traffic, and oh yes, that his white poodle had been stolen.  I commiserated with him all the way up the hill.  Now I know why I avoid centro on the weekends.  It's a madhouse.
 So, I've been spending more time up here on the hill.  The family above discovered the presa while out on a hike with their two children.  It was lovely to see.  It's been a peaceful, enjoyable time to be up on the roof terrace between rain storms.  Great place to read and also, ahem, to siesta.
 While school has been closed, an elderly painter has been busy at work repainting the figure of Montes de Oca on the front of the school.  He has been standing on a ladder that I've been sure would collapse at any minute.  But, so far, that has not happened, yet.
The piece de resistance however, has been this lovely rendition of my view of the canyon!  The previous mural of the children playing is gone which I so enjoyed.  But, I really think this is wonderful as well.

School does not reopen until some time after the tenth of August.  Many people in town, locals, both Mexican and gringos, are holding their breath waiting for town to return to some semblance of normalcy.

For a few weeks at least.  Until the celebrations of independence in the middle of September that go on til the end of September.  Then we will be inundated again.  Yes, San Miguel is being "loved to death".

Monday, July 27, 2015

Sebastian Woodrow

This photo taken on Saturday morning of Sebastian Woodrow makes me giggle each time I look at it.  All boy!

Armed with his new water gun, or squirt gun, whatever you want to call it, he is also outfitted with his goggles that he received last Christmas and his bug catching kit that he got recently.  All his favorite things.

Once he got the water pistol and received admonishments from his Dad as to who or what could be shot with water and who or what could not, Sebastian went upstairs to his room to get the bug kit and goggles.
He obviously meant business.

I could hardly contain my joy at the sight of him as he was outfitted to go into the jungles of the courtyard outside his house.  Anything that didn't move or did was fair game.

Here were some of the admonishments:

No shooting your sister in the face.
No shooting Scout, the dog, when he is in the house.
(Scout wisely stayed IN the house)
IF you shoot a bear, then this water gun is a tranquilizer gun and call
me outside.
IF you shoot a bug, put it in your bug carrying case.

Off he went in search of.............a bear, of course!

With a name like Sebastian Woodrow, Seb as he is called by his sister, has a lot to live up to.  He takes that very seriously too.  With the most amazing imagination and inquiring mind, one never knows what he is going to say or do next.

When I said to him on Saturday morning, "Oh Sebastian, I'm so glad to be here to have breakfast with you", he quickly corrected me and said, "Grammy, it is brunch because we are having pancakes and tuna fish sandwiches".  Luckily, I did not have to have a tuna fish sandwich after the pancake.

Then when he was outside mutilating the flowers and anything else that was not moving in the garden with the force of the water, he was singing.  His father informed me that he was singing in the language that he has invented!

His creativity and imagination could give him the nickname of the Steven Spielberg of San Miguel.  I so hope I live to see what he becomes later in life...........and that his imagination and intelligence is nurtured forever. At five years old, he IS a force to be reckoned with........

Thursday, July 23, 2015

Lightning, Thunder and Rain, Rain, Rain

 Our "usual" rainy season in San Miguel begins mid June and goes through mid to end of September.
NOT this year.  It started in January or February and has rained off and on.  Highly unusual.  Highly.

By this time of the year we usually have maybe,6 or 8 inches.  NOT this year.  At present, after last
night's storm of all storms, at my house it is close to 25 inches!

About two or three weeks ago, I began to hear the waterfall coming down the canyon wall from the dam above in the Botanical Garden.  The presa (reservoir) has been full to overflowing already.  Highly unusual.
This does not usually happen until mid September or so.
Also highly unusual has been the number of electrical storms with big booms of thunder and lots of lightning.

In one storm last week, it went on for hours.  Last night it was close to two hours of continual lightning and thunder.  It did not end until around midnight.  The thunder had started at about 3:30PM yesterday afternoon!  Highly unusual.
While I was out yesterday, I crossed the bridge at the bottom of the presa and was astonished at the river that is rushing through where it usually is just an arroyo with a bit of water, if any.  As I sit here and write, I can hear the rushing water at my house.......a good eight blocks away.

Locals are beginning to complain.  An avid tennis player said yesterday that he had only played once or twice since April.  Golfers are complaining as well.   However, I'm hoping that the farmers are happy.

The corn crops are outstanding.  So are all the other things grown in this area for export.  The wildflowers are higher then the top of my Pathfinder!  Add to that the birds and butterflies are soaring and flitting and loving the cool fresh air and the flowers that are blooming profusely.

Happy days.

Tuesday, July 21, 2015

Still on My Mind

Two things happened yesterday that are still on my mind.  Both were lovely, positive experiences.  No photos, but sharing the experiences might highlight your day as it did mine.

Arriving at Don Tomas on the jardin for our Monday morning gathering, the place was packed with people in town for the international film festival.  It was a surprise to see so many people still around.  Therefore there were no chairs or tables available outside or inside.  Waiting for a while with others, I spotted a table that was not being used next to a couple.  Timidly, I walked up and asked in my pitiful Spanish if it would be possible for us to use that table.

Imagine my surprise when the man responded in perfect English!  Born in Mexico City, he has lived in the USA, Kansas City, since he was seven years old.  He said of course we could have the small round glass topped table and as I started to lift it, he told me that he and his friend, a surgeon from DF, would move it for me.   Aaah, a gentleman.  They did move the table.

Then a young man around twenty years old who was sitting on a chair, told me we could have their chairs as I protested, "Oh no".  Not only did he give us their chairs, he got one more from another part of the patio and brought it to the table.  I was overwhelmed at their kindness and manners.

Mexican Nationals nine times out of ten will make me feel as though I'm an honored guest, no matter where it is.  I couldn't thank them enough.

Once we were settled the first man from Kansas City struck up a conversation and asked several questions after he had introduced all at his table to us.  I finally asked what his occupation was in Kansas City and he told me that he owned several restaurants.  Ahhh, then the conversation went on for quite a while.  At some point he said, "You are blessed to have so many friends"  By now there were about ten of us around this one tiny table.  I smiled.

Leaving that experience which was still in my smiling mind, I headed to Mega for groceries.  It had been several weeks since I had purchased groceries so it was a long, up and down each aisle, shopping excursion.
At the front of the store there were many people in each line to pay for their groceries.  I found a line and waited.  By now my bad knees were telling me to hurry up.

Just about the time I reached the place to put the groceries on the conveyor belt, a manager came up and said he was going to close that aisle and I would have to go to another line.  I looked over at all the lines with four or five people in the lines and knew I couldn't stand much longer.  So, I did something I've never done before.  I told the manager I have bad knees and would it be possible for me to be the last customer in this line.  He agreed!

Not only did he agree, but he helped me load the groceries on the conveyor belt and then once that was done, he went to the other side and helped the clerks bag my groceries. Stunned does not possibly explain how surprised this experience was for me!

Two acts of kindness in one day.  Wow!  I came home smiling and grateful for the civility and Old World manners of men in Mexico.  Add to that that I'm grateful that I notice these acts of kindness.  It makes life so worthwhile.

Monday, July 20, 2015

CASH FOR CHEMO

It is fascinating how people cross your path, one way or the other, and change your life forever.  Writing the blog has done this many times over for me.  Meeting people who write has turned into delightful friendships.

Enter Todd McIntosh and Shannon Casey - husband and wife.  I met the two of them when they still lived in Patzcuaro but came often to San Miguel for visits.  What a delightful, exuberant and vivacious couple they are to know.

Then about five years ago, while Shannon was trying to save a hummingbird that had flown into their high ceiling living room, she fell off a very tall ladder causing multiple injuries which, so far, has required EIGHT surgeries.   The first few surgeries in Morelia were not adequate so she and Todd sought out the well respected orthopedic surgeon, Dr. Schmidt in Queretaro.  There have been several procedures under his capable hands. Todd wrote about this event on his blog, Life in El Corazon in 2010. 

In order to facilitate all of this, Todd and Shannon sold their home in Patzcuaro for the funds necessary for those operations and moved to San Miguel to be nearer to Dr. Schmidt.

Then in May, another boom.  Shannon found out she had stage 3 cancer! Mixed malignant mullerian tumor (MMMT)  Even though they had signed up for health care in Mexico, it is not all covered by the plan.

Just  imagine the shock when they found out that each necessary chemo treatment would require an additional 15,000 pesos.  They need help.  The funds they had for the previous surgeries have depleted all their operating money.

A website for receiving funds has been set up called Cash for Chemo.  The link is https://life.indiegogo.com/fundraisers/cash-for-chemo.    Please give if possible.  It would be greatly appreciated by this kind and needful couple.

If you're interested in reading Shannon's blog, it is Rat Race Refugee. Both are on my blogroll.

There will be a fundraiser on Friday, August 14th at  La Noche Piano Bar on Zacateros in San Miguel de Allende. I'm working on this event that will have donated items for sale and a fun night for all with great music.  Hope to see you there. More on this as the details are solidified.  

Thanks for taking time to read this and helping, if possible.

Sunday, July 19, 2015

WHAT to write about?

Some people say to me that they don't write a blog because they wouldn't be able to think of enough things to write about on a regular basis.  I have the opposite experience.

Today it seems there are too many things I want to write about - such as, GIFF, the international film festival in town til Wednesday.  Then there are more haciendas to share photos of along with murals that have been recently updated at the school across the way!  Books I've recently read and enjoyed immensely could be a topic since I want to tell you about Eric Larson's new book, Dead Wake about the sinking of the Lusitania.
In addition, I've wanted to write about "remittances", which most US citizens are not even aware of along with some details about El Chapo and cartels.  I don't write political blogs although I often have to restrain myself from expressing my thoughts about things such as Trump and Rove.

But, it's Sunday and I don't want to write anything that is not kind. So, no political post.  Or the other topics.

Rather, I'll just share photos taken on Friday, the day the GIFF started.  It was enjoyable to see so many of the first comers in town.  By the end of the festival on Wednesday, it is estimated that 30,000 people will have come to San Miguel for the event. 
Film stars of the Mexican cinema are being honored.  Turkey is the country being honored as well.  Venues include the area where these photos were taken.  Chairs will be set up for free viewings and concerts.  In addition Bellas Artes, Theatre Angela Peralta and the Santa Ana theater in the Bibliotecha will be showing films.There are even some events at the Cinemark theater at the mall on the outskirts of town.

The photo above made me chuckle as the man is feverishly painting the ticket booth so it can open any minute to sell tickets.  Notice the red paint running down his painting arm.
 While that was going on this immense truck pulled up.  I've never seen anything like it in San Miguel before.
The projection booth for the screening of the films in the jardin was to be lifted off the bed and stood erect
in front of the Parroquia.
 Getting it down and in place took only about 15 minutes!  Amazing.  In the background you can see scaffolding where one of the statues is being repaired.  Of course, the guys all the way up there have no safety equipment on.......
 And, here stands the sign explaining what is going on to those who have no idea.
Humorously, the painter no sooner walked off then people started buying tickets.  Hopefully no red paint descended on their heads.

Many of the streets in centro were closed for the weekend.  "Traffic jam" took on a new meaning.  Stages had been set up for events and presentations.  Red carpets had been laid..........and I decided to stay up on the hill after I attempted to get out of centro once I had taken these photos. 

As always, my Friday "bench time" was not dull.  It's always something in Mexico!

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Hacienda Jaral de Berrios - Guanajuato Mexico - Interior Shots

Sometime in the last ten  years, I was lucky enough to have gone to Hacienda Jaral de Barrios, Hacienda La Quemada, Hacienda San Jose and Hacienda Trancas, many times.  Without thinking about it from a time span perspective, I took photos.  Today I'm so glad I did.

After visiting Jaral de Berrios last week, it was apparent that the demise of the interior has been ongoing during the time span since my last visit.  Here are photos taken about ten years ago of interior wall and ceiling decorations.  They are quite spectacular.
 All of these photos were taken on the second floor.  The above one, if I remember correctly, was taken at the front of the house and had natural light from windows.
 The stenciling and painted walls were exquisite irregardless of some decay.
 This fresco surrounding by broken tile is exceptional.  Try clicking on the photos to see if they will
enlarge.  I'm not sure if they will or won't.
 This was a canopy of silk that covered a large ballroom ceiling.  Exceptionally beautiful.
 The rotunda in the stairwell leading to the second floor not only had a skylight, but also windows looking out over the lands in the back of the building.  Lovely.
 This mural was a surprise and quite well executed.  The colors were still intense.
This photo is one of my all time favorites that I have ever taken.  All the textures of the white silk wall paper peeling from the wall against the exterior stone wall and the black wrought iron.  There was no ceiling left in this room.  I don't know what shape it is in now.  I did not go to the second floor on this trip.

Can't you just imagine the opulence of this house at one point.  It is written that at some time in history, the owner of this house at the time, was one of the richest men in the world!  It is totally  obvious from these photos......

Monday, July 13, 2015

The Saga of Scout the Dog and Velcro the Cat

On Friday night, as I attempted to watch TV,  Scout and Velcro turned out to be more entertaining.

Scout was just shaking to play with Velcro (my perception) and Velcro was enjoying walking as close as
possible to Scout to spread out on the chaise as though daring him to touch her.

I managed to get up and get the camera while this charade was ongoing.  Both were so intent on what the
other was doing, or not doing, that they did not pay any attention to what I was doing.
 Velcro jumped up there in the prime place to lay on the chaise and to lounge in the sunshine..........
 Once Velcro was settled, Scout began his slow move to get as close to the back of Velcro without her puffing up like a fur ball and hissing as possible.
 There he sat, patiently............
 And more patiently.  Getting ever closer.........
 Then he decided to adopt the "I don't care and I'm not looking at you" attitude.
 Velcro appeared not to know he was there.  However, I KNOW she did!
 Scout could be the best bird dog on the planet because he held this pose for over five minutes.
I was quietly chuckling to myself.  Isn't he a beautiful dog?
Then he finally stood up and looked directly at Velcro.  I know she knew he was there as her
ears were moving each time he moved.  The saga was over.

Scout went home to his real home on Saturday.  Velcro, who had become used to in the past week walking on the furniture or counters rather then on the floor was ever vigilant.  I saw her checking out every place all day Saturday and even yestrday.  Nope, the interloper was gone............No one waiting for her to come in or go out the door.  No one waiting to get her milk, or vice versa.

Life has settled back to a dull meow.  I, on the other hand, have been removing white dog fur from the carpets for two days.  It was all worth it..............I so enjoyed taking the time to watch how the two of them managed to live in peace, sorta, and harmony.

Sunday, July 12, 2015

Hacienda Jaral de Berrios - State of Guanajuato, Mexico

The idea of going to the Hacienda began because a well known photographer in San Miguel has been taking groups of photographers over to photograph inside and around the hacienda.  San Miguel is a small town and news travels fast. 

My friends are not particularly interested in photography.  However, they are interested in history and architecture so when the subject came up and I said I had been there eight or ten years ago and photographed it then, they wanted to do another road trip.

Hence the previous post about being on the road.

The Hacienda is exceptional.  It was, in the 1700's, the largest hacienda in Mexico.  Not only was it the largest, but the most productive, with cattle, agricultural crops, mining nitrate for gunpowder and harvesting crops for mescal, which is still ongoing to this day.  The mescal that is........

Construction on the buildings began in 1613 when the second owner of the land, Martin Ruiz de Zavala lived there.  Interestingly, there are many Zavalas living in San Miguel.
 In 1694, Andres de Berrio married the daughter of the third owner Damaso Said Saldivar.  This man was involved in the National Bank of Mexico, was very wealthy and provided money for expeditions into Northern New Spain, as the country was called at that time.  This was the beginning of the Berrio's family ownership of the hacienda.
 As I mentioned, this haciendas lands extended from the State of Durango to the State of Mexico.  It was so successful and profitable that the owners were given the title of Marquis!
 Barrels cover the portico areas today with mescal that is being aged for the future bottling with the name of Jaral de Berrios.  I bought a bottle as did the others in our group.
 Let me back up a minute and tell you about the mini adventure to get in here.  We arrived to the village of mud and water and rutted streets.  I got out and yelled through the chained front doors looking for the guard.
No guard.  I told everyone to be patient that someone would show up.  Within 5 minutes a red pickup pulled in and parked in front of the doors.  Out came the watchman and his son.  I asked if it would be possible for us to go inside to see the hacienda.  That we had come a long distance.  At first he said "No".  I then said g
 we would not be long and would it be possible?  He said he had to call his jefe (boss) and it would be a few minutes.  And he did.  The owner of the property is in Mexico City and he agreed that we could go in for a short period of time.  While the others looked around on the second floor, I stayed and schmoozed the guy with my pathetic Spanish.  I asked about his family and how long he had worked here.  Things like that.
 At some point he walked over, unchained and opened the doors to the parlor that still has the stenciling and painted walls from so long ago.  It was so totally dark in there at first I could not see anything.  Then my eyes adjusted and I could take the two photographs with my handy dandy flash.  They aren't great but they do show what magnificence there was until  the late 1800's.  I was elated that those with me could see these rooms as the rest of the property is in such decay.
 The photo above is another wing of the property that I was in previously but which we did not enter the other day.  The population of the village lives on down this dirt road.
 Here are granaries and storage areas that are located across from the hacienda.  In the distance is a magnificent chapel that was built by one of the owners as a burial chapel for himself and his family.
 It was typical back in the days of the haciendas for the chapel to be connected to the hacienda so that the family could attend services privately.  This chapel is quite large and elaborate.  It had a fence around it with chain link on the gates so that it was not possible to walk any closer to see it.
Here is the chapel adjacent to the granaries so that you can see the scale of it. 

In addition, there is a lovely church to the east of the chapel.  I'll share those photos in my next post along with photos taken many years ago when I was last at the hacienda.  Again, it was common for the hacienda owner to build the church for the workers to use and the people in the village.

This hacienda is truly in the middle of no major towns or cities.  There is a train station nearby that was used back in the day, but is not used any more to get from Mexico City to Nuevo Laredo. 

There is a LOT of information and photographs on Google.com and the article that gave the most information was the magazine article from Mexico Desconocido. It is in Spanish, but can be translated into English by hitting the translate button.   I found out about the chapel both from this article and a photographer who referred to it as la Capilla Hacienda.

In the information, it also came to my attention that Dotty Vidargas Realty in San Miguel has the listing to sell the hacienda.  It could be a great destination resort!  

IF you have millions of dollars...........


Saturday, July 11, 2015

On The Road in Mexico - Hacienda Jaral de Berrios

We were on the road by 9AM this past Wednesday morning.  The van had two more passengers then the day we went to Vizarron and Tequisquiapan.  Two new people who I had never met before.  We were a full
van.

I'd told the three that I traveled with before that everyone should bring a lunch as where we were going there was no place to eat. Also that it would be prudent to make sure that the car had gas as I didn't remember seeing Pemex stations on my last trip to Hacienda Jaral de Berrios about eight years ago.

Well, we did find a Pemex station near San Felipe.  We also found the usual attached OXXO store so those who had not believed me could stock up on something to eat.

By this point we were about an hour past Delores Hidalgo heading northeast toward San Luis Potosi.

For me, just getting out and riding the back roads of Mexico is enough.  It's always beautiful in one way or another.  Usually this time of the year, we have only had a few weeks of rain so things are not green yet.
 Not this year!  We've had rain all year long and especially the last five weeks.  Whoa, it has been something else.  The skies have looked menacing so that one is usually looking up if they intend to be out in the weather as to how to dress.  I never leave the house without an umbrella at this time of the year.  In addition, I always make sure all windows and doors are closed.  The storms seem to come up in a matter of minutes, sometimes.
 We were all exclaiming about how green the fields were and how magnificent all the crops looked this early in the season.
 These photos were taken between San Felipe and our arrival at Hacienda Jaral de Berrios.
 We arrived at the hacienda after about a two hour drive.  The dirt roads in the village were a sea of mud with giant ruts.
And, as the day progressed, the clouds came down closer to the mountains and got darker.  Surprisingly, we arrived back in San Miguel around 5PM having not experienced a drop of rain!  And.............drum roll please, no rain since Tuesday!

Stay tuned, the next post will be photos of Hacienda Jaral de Berrios, built at the end of the 1600's.  It was, at its time, the largest hacienda in Mexico with its lands extending from the State of Durango to Mexico City.
It's an amazing place and a very interesting story.

Tuesday, July 07, 2015

Four Places in Mexico That Changed My Life

I often think of the places in Mexico that I have gone that have made the most impact on my life.  Most were not anticipated as having a significant impact, but did.

The one that I don't have a photo of, but could definitely find one from the 70's, is Puerto Vallarta.  That is when I first went there.  It was pristine beauty.  A small town at that time with no development other then two houses in Mismaloya.  No highrises along the road from there to PV and few tourists.

It changed my life in the fact that I was there remodeling a house.  The first house built there in the 50's by an expat. It was such a big deal that National Geographic did a photo essay and article on it back in those days.
It was located overlooking the river that flows through town to the ocean.  I loved the house and PV. My client sold that four bedroom house with three baths overlooking the ocean for $85,000USD~!  In fact, for quite a while after being there for six weeks, my mind was made up that that was where I was going to live.  At that point, one could buy a house behind the church for $35,000USD with an inside pool.  But, it obviously did not happen.  However, Puerto Vallarta planted the seed of retiring in Mexico.  I had just turned fifty years old.  Nine years later, I was living in Mexico!

Patzcauro is a village surrounded by a beautiful lake that I exported from for about twenty years. It was not a place that I was able to get to often because the suppliers would meet with me in Guadalajara when I was on buying trips.

When I did start going there more frequently after moving to Mexico, it was apparent that I needed to go for Dia de los Muertos.  Oh my, it was a life altering experience, to put it mildly.
It is hard to describe the sensuality of the fragrance of the incense and flowers, the light of the millions of the candles as you enter the cemeteries and the beauty of the families sitting quietly all night long.  Families of grandparents, parents, teenagers, little children sitting in the freezing cold all night long.  Never before or since have I seen anything that touched my soul to the degree that visiting the small cemeteries, off the beaten path, caused for me.  Tears welled in my eyes from the whole experience.  To think that people care enough about their departed family members to clean the graves, decorate the graves and to sit vigil was overwhelming for me.

If you haven't and you want to, plan on going but find someone to take you to the smaller cemeteries where there are not tons of tourists.  Start planning a year ahead so you can get accommodations and make arrangements.  The first time I went, I was amazed at how many Europeans were there.  Obviously, it is world renowned.  Go for a few days beforehand so you can see the flower markets and experience the town and the surrounding villages as well. 

Xochimilco are the magnificent gardens about 20 minutes from downtown Mexico City.  Developed thousands of years ago, they are still used to grow flowers for sale and to raise cattle on the floating islands built by the Aztecs!



The most important thing is to make arrangements to go through the locks into the areas that the tourists do not go so you can see the real life of the people who live in this magnificent place.  The huge cypress trees, flowers everywhere and the cleanliness of the area make one marvel at how close a city of 26 million people are to it.  Go, if you ever get a chance.

The Sierra Gorda where the five missions of Father Serra and Las Pozas near the village of Xilitla are the last that I'm writing about today.  It is not easy to get there.  From San Miguel it is a six hour drive, but, so, so well worth going to see.

Father Serra, after finishing the five missions in various tiny villages, then traveled by foot across Mexico and up the coast of California to oversee the building of all those missions.  That man had stamina!  Each mission in the Sierra Gorda is different with outstanding decoration and architecture.  The journey to get to each is exquisitely beautiful.

Then Las Pozas is a mystical, magical architectural wonder and a natural wonder.  I'm not going to relate the whole story of Edward James because there are many videos and articles on the internet about him.  I first read about him in a Smithsonian magazine then in Texas Monthly early in the 90's.  It caused me to fly with a group from Houston to see Las Pozas.  The article was wonderful but it in no way prepared any of us for the beauty of the area or what James had created.  The waterfalls are magnificent.  The Sierra Gorda is a biosphere area and so the butterflies, birds and other flora and fauna (wild orchids) are staggeringly beautiful.  If I were to be able to go back to the beginning of time on Earth, I think it would be as beautiful as the Sierra Gorda.

I've been back many times.  One year I went there for Day of the Dead.  The altars were all covered with orchids!  Very, very few tourists which adds to the enjoyment for me.  Lovely place.  The BBC series, Around the World in Eighty 80 Gardens  includes both Las Pozas and Xochimilco in their wonderful places in the world to see. 

I feel honored to have been to both and enjoyed the natural beauty of this magnificent country.  Hope you see them some day as well.


Monday, July 06, 2015

Misconceptions about San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

 I read a lot.  Often articles about places in Mexico that I haven't visited as yet.  In review after review, there is often a comment about how wonderful the featured place is and sometimes a little bit about
San Miguel de Allende, my adopted home for the last 14+ years.  I find these comments, from time to time
to be inaccurate and sometimes downright incorrect.
LANGUAGE for instance.  In two separate pieces I read last week the comment was made that if you move to San Miguel de Allende, Spanish is not required!  Huh?  Well, possibly if you're only there for a short time and only going to use a taxi, check into a hotel or order food in a restaurant.  But, if you live there and
need to deal with every day things like paying utilities, reporting utilities not working, street lights not working, well you get my drift, you better be able to speak Spanish.  In addition, when going in small stores or to schools or just about any place, other then restaurants, you better be able to speak some Spanish.

It has only been very recently that if you called the emergency phone number for the police, that there is someone there who speaks English.  And, I'm not sure that is 24/7 but the luck of the draw.  You better be able to communicate your issue.

People move down here only able to order a beer or to take a taxi.  They are shocked, if while looking for a place to live, the person showing them the home (except for the US franchised real estate firms) do not speak English.

Plus there is always the situation if you don't understand Spanish that you will misinterpret what is being said.
That happens a lot here when people, myself included, don't pick up the nuance in the conversation.

If I have to do something, at this point, that is critically important, such as renew my visa or handle something at the courts or police department, typically I pay an interpreter or facilitator to accompany me.  It is worth the money not to have bad consequences.

It is most important, if you're going to live here, to invest the time and money in Spanish classes.  You'll be so glad you did.

NUMBER OF EXPATS   The articles that I have read have said that there are at least 10,000 expats in
San Miguel de Allende.  Trust me, there is no way there are that many ex-pats living full time in San Miguel in that range.  I asked the INM (Immigration) office manager and was told that in the entire area that they are responsible for, which covers factories in Silao, and other distant places, that there are not 10,000 expats.  He said the number actually in the town of San Miguel is closer to 5000 expats.  Even that number seems high to me.  Don't shoot the messenger, but I would say its more like 3000 here full time.  And, that is a stretch.  San Miguel itself has a population of 61,000 people.  The municipality, including the town is 140,000 inhabitants.  It is a very large municipality with many villages included.

COST OF LIVING  In some instances, such as real estate, San Miguel is more expensive then places like Lake Chapala or Patzcauro.  Meals in Mexico City, I have found, in many instances, to be less expensive then San Miguel.  With that said, however, unless you are going to the top ten most expensive restaurants here, you can definitely have a lunch with a drink for close to, if not less then, $10USD.

I had lunch yesterday at one of my most favorite dining places, Mansion de Montitlan, or as we affectionately refer to it as Gayle's place, and for a three course delicious individually prepared meal, with drink, home baked focaccia, and dessert, the cost was $24.50USD.  That meal in Houston would be $75USD....maybe a bit less.  Gayle's is a mid priced restaurant in San Miguel.

NUMBER OF TOURISTS  Everyone is always surprised when we tell them that the mix of our tourists is about 80% Mexican Nationals and 20% other.  Europeans, Asians, US Citizens and Canadians make up that 20%.  We have way more tourists on the weekends causing the streets to become very crowded with vehicular traffic.  Now that the roads that allow access to San Miguel have been greatly improved in the last eight years or so, the influx from Friday afternoon until the egress on Sunday night is startling.


WEATHER  Although most of the articles I come across refer to San Miguel as having "year round spring like weather", I always cringe when I read this.  Our spring and summer are mid February to mid June.  Once the summer rains come, our temps drop into the mid 70's.  I guess in parts of the country mid 70's are springlike, so it is all relative.

The months of October and part of November are Fall like and then in December, January and part of February the cold sets in.  For us, five days in a row of lows of 27 and highs of mid 50's is cold.  What, you say?  Well, consider that our houses are made without insulation.  Many are stone houses.  If not stone, brick.  Consider no insulation and no insulated windows.  I never did until the first winter here.  Quickly, I was out buying space heaters for every room possible.  Also warming blankets and flannel pajamas.  People have come down in the past to stay for the Christmas holidays but have left early due to the cold weather.

In people's minds, it is Mexico, it shouldn't be cold anywhere.  Ahhh, but we are at 6400 ft elevation.  (Think Colorado).  No, we almost never have snow, but it is cold.  There is snow around us up near Durango, Mexico or down around Mexico City and Puebla.  People are astounded when they see the photos as we did this past winter.

The purpose of this article is to dispel some of the misconceptions and myths of the articles.  It's also to say to do your homework before deciding to move here so you are not disappointed or dismayed.  The articles are interesting to read, but one must do their own research before making a life altering decision.

Even with all the misconceptions, I love living here.  That doesn't mean there aren't absolutely many wonderful places to live, but for me, this works!

Viva Mexico!